So as I begin, I want to offer an apology to Caudalie. Please don’t sue me. I’m just super curious and like researching things. 🙏🏼 My full disclaimer is below. 

But I also don’t want to break the bank anymore if I don’t have to. Let a girl live her life!! 

My skincare Thread went OFF this week. You guys were all over it, sharing excitement, humor, asking questions, etc… 

It was AHHHHMAZING! 

And then there were the Debbie Downers and Negative Nancy’s trying to burst bubbles with their reasons why this is horrible, flawed, faulty, failed, misleading, uninformed… Blah, Blah, Blah. 

You guys. I made that post because I have genuine curiosity about my luxury moisturizer. I thought it would be fun to learn about the ingredients, what they did, how they worked and the efficacy of them. 

I then wanted to see other products with similar ingredients, in similar order, to compare them. Especially the prices. 

Because here’s the deal: we all like saving money! Am I right?!?

And if I can find something that is just as effective (or close to) as my $130 moisturizer, I will check it out and see how my skin responds. 

Purely for research, fun and hobby. Not because I’m some scientist. 

So here is the disclaimer:

I am not an expert. I am a woman about to turn 40 in less than 3 months. I have VERY dry skin around the parameter of my face, and normal to dry skin around my T-Zone. I invest in A LOT of skincare products. Medical grade, luxury, and most recently over the counter. My curiosity peeked this week and I decided to really dive into the ingredients in my products. I wanted to know how they worked, the efficacy and what made them important for my skin type. 

This blog post is to inspire you to take action and research your own skincare products. We all deserve to be informed.

I will tell you the science terms behind the key ingredients, what they mean, what they do, if it’s lasting/temporary results, and if there are other products that contain the key ingredients that I am looking for. 

The way I researched was with a tool – a fucking awesome tool – and it has helped me gain a basic understanding that gave me the knowledge and verbiage I needed to use to continue researching. 

That’s it. If you’re curious about my process, continue reading…

Let me break this all down for you:

First thing first. I went to ChatGPT – I have this model. DON’T roll your eyes yet! It is the official app by OpenAI. It’s called ChatGPT-4o.

I like this model of AI because as it is giving you responses, it is also showing you what websites it is scanning. These are the resources it uses to give you an answer.

But how do I know that ChatGPT is accurate?

The resources it scanned through were:

• SkinSkool
• SkinSort
• WhatsInMyJar

And the science backed information that came from studies were published in dermatology and cosmetic science journals. All accessible through academic databases, like PubMed. “It is a huge, reliable, and highly authoritative resource.”

I’m not taking it for 100% full face value. But it’s more than my own lack of knowledge.

After I made my post on Threads and received comments, questions and feedback, I ended up going back and redoing how I asked my questions with more detail. I wanted a deeper dive into my skincare. With actual science-backed data.

Sound good? Let’s get into what I was ACTUALLY researching.

The moisturizer: Caudalie Premier Cru moisturizer. Retails for $130.

Don’t get me wrong, this is luxe and I really like it. And it has patented ingredients. Which I appreciate if they do what they’re advertised for. This is one reason I purchased this product.

But I have a spicy mind that likes to collect evidence and see patterns. I can literally find out any information you need. Super FBI. And yes, it’s girl code. 

So hit me up if you want me to investigate your best friends boyfriend 😉

I digress. 

But, I simply began with asking ChatGPT surface level questions:

I started with asking it to act like a skincare formulation research scientist (made that up). I then copy and pasted the patented ingredients from Caudalie’s website first, and then asked it to explain what these ingredients are. 

Ok great. Got the ingredients on what is SUPPOSED to set this moisturizer apart from others. Hence the higher price tag. 

Here’s where it got juicy….

“Now give me a science backed detailed report on the efficacy of these patented ingredients.”

Patented ingredients in Caudalie Cru Moisturizer:

TET8™ Patent (Resveratrol and Honokiol)

• Efficacy of Resveratrol is well-researched for its potent antioxidant properties. However, the key challenge with resveratrol is its stability, as it can degrade when exposed to light and air.

• Efficacy of Honokiol, derived from magnolia, has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, and research indicates its potential in protecting the skin from environmental stressors. However, studies on its topical efficacy are limited compared to more well-known ingredients like retinol or vitamin C.

• Overall Efficacy of TET8™: While resveratrol has proven efficacy, the effectiveness of honokiol is still under study. Caudalie’s claim that TET8™ targets eight signs of aging likely holds true for collagen production and antioxidant defense, but the clinical evidence for honokiol’s long-term anti-aging effects is not as robust.

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Micro Hyaluronic Acid (Low-Molecular-Weight Hyaluronic Acid)

• Efficacy: Hyaluronic acid, in general, is one of the most effective and well-researched humectants in skincare. Studies suggest that low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid can improve skin elasticity, reduce wrinkle depth, and enhance overall skin hydration. 

• Potential Downsides: While effective for deep hydration, there is some concern that low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid may cause inflammation in certain skin types due to its ability to penetrate deeper into the skin. This ingredient only offers a temporary solution and doesn’t contribute to collagen production or deeper skin repair. Its role is more cosmetic than therapeutic.

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Instant Tightening Sugars from Honey Locust

• Efficacy: Honey Locust extract is used in skincare for its instant tightening effect. The polysaccharides in this extract form a thin film on the skin, physically tightening the surface and giving the appearance of smoother, firmer skin within minutes. This effect is temporary and typically lasts for a few hours.

• Scientific Backing: While the immediate tightening effects are noticeable and proven, this is more of a cosmetic, short-term benefit. The sugars don’t penetrate the skin or alter the deeper skin structure, so they don’t provide long-term anti-aging benefits.

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Conclusion:

The Caudalie Premier Cru Moisturizer offers a powerful combination of antioxidant protection (thanks to resveratrol), deep hydration (from hyaluronic acid), and temporary tightening (from honey locust sugars).

The patented TET8™ technology shows promise, but may not yet have the same level of clinical backing as other anti-aging standards like retinol or peptides.

Overall, this is a high-quality moisturizer that excels in hydration and providing immediate cosmetic benefits, but for long-term structural skin repair, you may need additional products.

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Uh oh 👀

It’s a great moisturizer for the hydrating benefits and temporary tightening, but the clinical and scientific backing isn’t really aligning to what Caudalie is advertising. *bummer*

I continued on….

So based on the patented ingredients, I asked it to give me similar products on the market with the same or similar patented ingredients. 

It spit out:

• SkinCeuticals Resveratrol B E
• The Ordinary Resveratrol 3% + Ferulic Acid 3%
• La Mer The Treatment Lotion
• Estee Lauder Micro Essence Treatment Lotion
• L’Oréal Revitalift Micro Hyaluronic Acid, Ceramides Plumping Cream
• Andalou Naturals Fruit Stem Cell Revitalize Serum

But here’s where I’m tripped up.

If the efficacy of the patented ingredients aren’t as potent, then why not research the rest of the ingredients and see how they add up and compare. 

Onward…

“Continue acting like a skincare formulation research scientist. *copy and pasted all the Caudalie Cru ingredients* Now breakdown the most effective ingredients and explain the importance of what they do, how they affect dry skin, and the efficacy.”

Most effective ingredients in this order:

1. Aqua/Water/Eau 
   • Effect on Dry Skin: Provides immediate hydration, though on its own, it evaporates quickly without occlusive agents to lock in moisture
2. Glycerin
   • Effect on Dry Skin: Glycerin is highly effective for hydrating and softening the skin. For dry skin, it ensures moisture retention in the skin’s outer layer, making it a staple in formulations targeting dehydration 
3. Butylene Glycol (Humectant, Solvent and Emollient)
   • Effect on Dry Skin: Helps keep skin hydrated and assists other ingredients in reaching deeper layers of the skin, boosting the overall efficacy of the formula
4. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (Coconut oil and Glycerin)
   • Effect on Dry Skin: Provides a lightweight, non-greasy moisturizing effect. It creates a barrier on the skin’s surface, locking in moisture and preventing dehydration
5. Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate (Emollient derived from Olive Oil)
   • Effect on Dry Skin: This ingredient mimics the skin’s natural oils, providing deep moisturization without clogging pores. It’s especially beneficial for replenishing lipids in the skin barrier
6. Cetearyl Alcohol & Cetearyl Glucoside
   • Effect on Dry Skin: Cetearyl alcohol is a non-drying, fatty alcohol that conditions and softens the skin. Together, these ingredients stabilize the formulation and help deliver moisture to the skin 
7. Coco-Caprylate/Caprate (Coconut Oil & Triglycerides)
   • Effect on Dry Skin: It provides moisture and a smooth feel on the skin, without clogging pores or feeling heavy. It helps lock moisture into the skin’s barrier, which is essential for dry skin
8. Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables
   • Effect on Dry Skin: Olive oil unsaponifiables are rich in antioxidants and essential fatty acids that help deeply moisturize and protect dry, damaged skin 
9. Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil 
   • Effect on Dry Skin: It’s highly moisturizing and works well to repair the skin barrier. Sesame seed oil penetrates the skin easily and prevents water loss, making it suitable for dry skin 
10. Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil 
    • Effect on Dry Skin: Grape seed oil helps moisturize without clogging pores and provides antioxidant protection. It works synergistically with other moisturizing ingredients to improve skin texture
11. Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter 
    • Extract Effect on Dry Skin: Shea butter is an excellent moisturizer for dry skin. It helps restore the lipid barrier and provides long-lasting hydration. It’s particularly effective for improving rough or flaky skin 
12. Propanediol (Preservative Booster)
    • Effect on Dry Skin: While not a primary moisturizer, it supports the hydration process by enhancing the delivery of other hydrating ingredients. It can enhance the effectiveness of preservatives in a product, helping extend the shelf life of the formulation by inhibiting microbial growth. It is nontoxic. 
13. Palmitoyl Grapevine Shoot Extract & Palmitoyl Grape Seed Extract
    • These ingredients are linked to the TET8™ patent, combining resveratrol from grapevine with other peptides to promote anti-aging
    • Effect on Dry Skin: These peptides support skin regeneration and help reduce signs of aging. While not direct hydrators, they support overall skin health and improve skin texture
14. Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid 
    • Effect on Dry Skin: Hyaluronic acid is a gold standard for hydrating dry skin. It helps keep the skin plump, smooth, and hydrated by drawing moisture into the deeper layers of the skin 
15. Tocopherol (Vitamin E)
    • Effect on Dry Skin: Vitamin E is also an emollient that helps moisturize and protect the skin, preventing water loss and improving the skin barrier function
16. Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil 
    • Effect on Dry Skin: It helps moisturize and repair the skin barrier, making it a great choice for nourishing dry skin without feeling greasy 
      

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My next question is about anti-aging, as that is a HUGE selling point of Caudalie:

“How do these ingredients impact aging skin and assess the overall effectiveness”

Answer: 

The ingredients in this formulation are highly effective for anti-aging, particularly due to the presence of antioxidants, moisturizers, and collagen-stimulating compounds. The combination of resveratrol, hyaluronic acid, vitamin E, and adenosine (anti inflammatory) provides a comprehensive approach to addressing the multiple signs of aging.

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Awesome. I love the hydrating properties of this product. But it seems like there could possibly be other brands that have the same ingredients and effectiveness. 

So I asked for comparable medical grade, luxury and over the counter options. 

Medical Grade:

• SkinMedica HA5 Rejuvenating Hydrator
• SkinCeuticals A.G.E. Interrupter

Luxury:

• La Mer Crème de la Mer
• Chanel Sublimage La Crème Lumière

Over The Counter:

• L’Oréal Revitalift Micro Hyaluronic Acid + Ceramides Cream
• Neutrogena Hydro Boost Gel-Cream
• CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream
• CeraVe Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid Serum
• Eucerin Advanced Repair Cream
• Eucerin Hyaluron-Filler + Volume-Lift Cream (this is a Eucerin’s European skincare line)
• The Ordinary Resveratrol 3% + Ferulic Acid 3%
• The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5

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So from there I asked which OTC products are actually comparable and considered a dupe for Caudalie Premier Cru Moisturizer, and WHY. 

The conclusion:

The best overall dupe for Caudalie’s Premier Cru is The Ordinary Resveratrol 3% + Ferulic Acid 3%. This product directly mimics Caudalie’s use of resveratrol, offering potent antioxidant protection against free radical damage. Combined with ferulic acid, it enhances skin’s defense mechanisms and boosts anti-aging efficacy, similar to Caudalie’s TET8™ technology. Pair it with a moisturizer or serum with hyaluronic acid. *See list below*.

• Potency of Ingredients: The high concentration of resveratrol is actually stronger than what’s found in Caudalie, providing excellent antioxidant benefits. Ferulic acid also enhances the stability and potency of resveratrol, boosting its effectiveness.

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Runner Ups:

L’Oréal Revitalift Micro Hyaluronic Acid + Ceramides Cream

• Why It’s a Good Dupe: This cream provides micro hyaluronic acid and ceramides that deeply hydrate the skin and reinforce the skin barrier. The micro-form allows for better penetration, similar to Caudalie’s use of micro hyaluronic acid.
• Potency of Ingredients: The hyaluronic acid in micro form penetrates deeper than regular hyaluronic acid, delivering lasting hydration, while ceramides help protect the skin barrier.

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Eucerin Hyaluron-Filler + Volume-Lift Cream

• Why It’s a Good Dupe: Eucerin’s cream includes hyaluronic acid for hydration and collagen-stimulating peptides, which help plump the skin and restore volume, targeting fine lines and wrinkles.
  • Potency of Ingredients: This formulation delivers excellent hydration and plumping effects. While it doesn’t contain resveratrol, the peptides work similarly by promoting collagen synthesis, making it a well-rounded anti-aging product.

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CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream

• Why It’s a Good Dupe: This cream features niacinamide for brightening, peptides for collagen stimulation, and ceramides for barrier repair, making it a comprehensive anti-aging and hydrating option.
  • Potency of Ingredients: The combination of peptides and niacinamide provides some anti-aging benefits similar to Caudalie. Ceramides help reinforce the skin’s barrier, essential for keeping skin hydrated and youthful.

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Price Breakdown:

Caudalie Premier Cru Moisturizer (1.6 ounces): $130 or refill pot for $109

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Best Overall Dupes:

The Ordinary Resveratrol 3% + Ferulic Acid 3% (1.7oz) – $10

L’Oréal Revitalift Micro Hyaluronic Acid + Ceramides Cream (1.7oz) – $36

Eucerin Hyaluron-Filler + Volume-Lift Cream (1.7oz or 50ml) – $33

CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream (1.7oz) – $17

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For personal preference, and for additional hydration and antioxidant benefits, I would include a tiny amount of grape-seed oil. 

You could literally take The Ordinary Resveratrol 3% + Ferulic Acid 3% and pair it with L’Oréal Revitalift Micro Hyaluronic Acid + Ceramides Cream for the AM, and CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream for PM.

For all 3 products it would cost you: $63. AND it would last you at least 3x longer than Caudalie’s moisturizer.

I don’t know about you, but I find it worthy to see if these dupes can actually give similar results as the luxury brand. 

This is about making informed decisions and being able to discern what you are putting on your face. 

I didn’t check all of these ingredients to see if they’re clean and natural. While I appreciate those qualities, that isn’t always my top priority…. Although I am trying to be more mindful.

UNLESS fragrance is high on the ingredient list. I am sensitive to high fragrance products.

I assume the higher an ingredient on the list, that it means it makes up more of the formula. 

PS: the FDA doesn’t approve cosmetic products, except for dyes. They leave that up to manufacturers. So no one can claim that these are not FDA approved. For example: hyaluronic acid is NOT approved for topicals, but IS approved for injectable’s. Although the FDA has made a statement that it is safe to use. 

PSS: I am uncertain of dupe comparison sites. SkinSkool is a big one, but they receive commission for products they recommend. 🧐 They say they’re unbiased, but I have my own thoughts. 

I am not an affiliate of ANY skincare product. This is purely out of hobby and fun. I don’t feel like I need to monetize this.

And if you’re here to say: “but, but, but…”

Listen, if you can afford higher-end skincare products, that is amazing. But not everyone has that luxury.

We have to stick together and help more women get their hands on affordable, yet effective, skincare.

Ok. My work here is done. 

What do you want to see me research next? 

Drop it in the comments.